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<DIV>A couple of notes as to what to look for to solve your issues. I have
not worked on this machine but the symptoms are universal.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The following is all speculation and conjecture. Do not take it for
gospel. All legal statements etc. according to my Marx Brother
Lawyers.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>First, the seeing of two syncs and bursts. This is due to the timing
difference between the machine and the house sync that you are using. The
house sync is being inserted back in according to what you said earlier.
All that needs to solve this is to find out how to get the H phase to align
with the house sync. If you are in Regen mode, this will
disappear. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The issue with the color bars changing color in the regen mode tells me
that the machine is not gen-locking to the incoming black burst in that
mode. A way to tell this is to trigger your scope from the outside house
burst and look at the output of the machine. If the two signals are
moving, then you are not locked. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>You should do this to get the machine to be in time with the external
black. Show house burst on one channel of the scope and the output on
the other. Then triggering off the house, get the two signals to line
up.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Reel tensions have to be done quickly. Do not remove the reel motors
as there is a possibility of issues. The reel turntable heights are set to
SMPTE standards and not knowing how RCA did it you may have a minor issue.
Ampex did it by putting shims under each bolt for the reel motor. These
are very specific to each one so if you change, then it requires a way to get
the height back to normal. Possibly you could set up a measurement system
to note the height of the table above the deck at all four bolt holes and then
replicate the numbers when the motor is replaced. I have never had a motor
go bad in over 20 years. The only time that I had to remove a motor was
when someone slammed a reel on and broke the pin that holds the turntable to the
shaft. I was lucky that the Ampex person that built the deck had marked
the shim sizes on the back of the deck.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The issue of the black and white tape looking good and then the color tape
going bad is interesting. I do not know if the machine plays all three
standards. If so was the switch in the correct position? Or does it
auto switch like the TR-70? If the latter, then look at that
circuitry. The auto EQ does not have a burst in low band black and white
so is shut off. Manual adjustment is required and it is sometimes not that
easy to see the banding in black and white. Play back color bars and see
if the auto EQ is working. If not, do the manual adjustments to get the
picture looking right. Then try the auto. It may be so far out that it can
not adjust.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The long lock up would also be an indication of the fact that the machine
may be in the wrong standard.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Hope that helps.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Chris Hill</DIV></FONT><DIV CLASS="aol_ad_footer" ID="a28540fb3dac46b44e3ce4d766a938c2"><br/><font style="color:black;font:normal 10pt arial,san-serif;"> <hr style="margin-top:10px"/></font></DIV></BODY></HTML>