<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16640" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"
bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7><FONT id=role_document
face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>VR-1200 B Series Transport Notes, Hints and Kinks</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>This will be a set of thought about the things that I found to keep the
transport in good condition. It will be broken down into the main
components for ease of following. The assumption is that you have all
manuals and no procedure will be repeated here.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>SUPPLY TURNTABLES</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> Do not remove the motor from the deck unless you really have
to. There are a set of shims under each of the four mounting holes on the
plate these were placed there at the factory to make the turntable parallel to
the deck and set the correct height. We found that there were markings on
the back of the deck in pencil that told how much each corner required. We
were very lucky in this instance. If you remove it, look for numbers on
deck, if not loosen motor and then remove one bolt at a time. Capture all
the shims and keep them in separate sets for the correct placement when
reinstalling the motor.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> There are two major above deck things to keep in good repair.
First is the reel guide that goes in the notch in the tape reel . This is
needed to prevent damage to your tape. If it is not there, the reel may
not be grabbed by the hold downs and then the motor will spin very fast.
When it grabs, you have now 1 inch wide tape. The part is changed by
removing the reel hold down knob and the parts just below. There is a
screw and washer that hold the bent piece of metal. Very easy to
replace.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> The reel hold downs should be inspected. If there is any wear,
they will not grab the reel and hold it tight to the turntable. These can
be inspected at the same time.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>BRAKES</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> As long as the solenoids are working smoothly, the brakes only need
attention in replacement of the bands. I did a sneaky thing to get me in
the ball park. I would remove the old one, then set a new one next to
it. If they were about the same length, then it would only require minor
adjustment. I always looked to see if the wear pattern was even.
This way you could tell that the brakes were installed properly. I always
cleaned up the area and got all the brake dust out of the machine.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>COMPLIANCE ARMS</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> There is a silicon fluid that is used to dampen the arms. If
they are bouncing all over the place, then check the dampers and fill up the
fluid. There is a check with the spring scales to tell if the right amount
of force is being met. The two tension arms are the same part number so if
you want to swap them to get rid of the groove in the post, it would be a good
idea. You can also rotate the posts to a new spot. The end of tape
switch should activate at the last ¼ inch or so of travel to the bottom.
The brake release should activate about when the arm is at 8 o'clock. If 9
or later, then out of adjustment. Mirror image for Take-up brake
release.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>ERASE HEAD ASSEMBLY</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> There were several versions of the erase head. The B model used
the back side of erase with a split to not erase the control track in the INSERT
mode. There is also a CUE track read head for use with the EDITEC.
The only thing that was ever done to mine were to replace roller bearings in the
rotating guides. If the guides do not rotate freely, replace the
bearings. There is one other thing that we did. We rotated the
bottom and top caps to allow the groove that was being worn in the guides to be
moved to a non touching location. After a few years, we replaced the two
parts. Remove the complete assembly from the transport and there are
screws on the bottom that hold the rollers in place. To rotate, just
loosen and then rotate. If replacing parts, you can do most of that from
the top without removing the assembly from the transport. When
reinstalling, make sure the assemble is centered rotation wise in its
mounting. If you use the EDITOR and do not do this, there may be a couple
of mil displacement for the erase to head wheel distance. Then you have to
get the EdiVue out and make sure that the edits are good. The Editor book
talks about erase timing.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>CAPSTAN ROLLER</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> Keep it clean and soft. Do not use Freon or Head cleaner.
Alcohol with lanolin was recommended to us. When replacing, it is
imperative that the roller be parallel to the capstan shaft. The tape will
be skewed up or down and receive edge damage if not done. Depending on the
binder, some tapes are more severely damaged. If you can get an Allen
Wrench that has been made with very short stem on it, that will help.
Remove the roller from the capstan arm. Then being very careful, remove
the clip on the bottom. Then start to take the pieces out.
Keep all pieces in the correct placement and orientation. These are
special washers that have to go in the right order. See the book. I
would lay it out in a row so that I got everything back in the correct
order. I always checked the bearings when I had it off. It was just
to keep me from having to do it again. <BR> After you reassemble the
roller, place it on the machine. Then, push the arm so that the roller
just starts to make contact with the capstan. Look and if it is not evenly
doing so, loosen the screws and rotate the roller a bit until you get it
perfect. Try this several times to make sure that it is perfect. It
will keep damage to a minimum. I never had to adjust the amount of
pressure that the roller exerts on the capstan.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>That is it for the transport. Most of it is simple. Check your
torque's once a year or so as they never change. I did find that they had
to be close so that the machine would work well with an editor. We used
the RA-4000 with the VR-1200 along with AVR2's. The other thing was
that if the machine took more than 3.5 sec to lock up, then it needed
attention. Capstan roller and Intersync alignment were the first two
things that we looked at.</DIV></FONT><DIV CLASS="aol_ad_footer" ID="54bfd9fff0959de5391bf38de96e19ac"><br/><font style="color:black;font:normal 10pt arial,san-serif;"> <hr style="margin-top:10px"/><B>An Excellent Credit Score is 750. <A HREF=http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323041x1201367261/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=JulyExcfooterNO62>See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps!</A></B></font></DIV></BODY></HTML>